Since Spotify marked San Luis Obispo on the map in its “2023 Wrapped” as a significant sound town, the city’s musical culture has surged alongside its well-known outdoor appeal. With a growing list of albums captivating music lovers and an ever-expanding roster of recommended activities in the county, I set out to explore both in a new series: Sights and Sounds of SLO — pairing iconic albums with the perfect local excursions.
The musician: Daniel Johnston
For this first installment, I’ve selected Daniel Johnston, often called “your favorite musician’s favorite musician.” Johnston created a strange and eclectic discography spanning the 1980s to the 2010s, earning praise from audiophiles and mainstream attention with artists like Frank Ocean and Kurt Cobain sporting merchandise from his 1983 album, “Hi, How Are You.”
Johnston’s quick, unpredictable tunes have a scattered and sporadic sound that reflects his lifelong public struggles with bipolar disorder and schizophrenia — conditions that inspired many of his album covers and deeply personal lyrics.
The album: Fun (1994)
For this hike, I selected Johnston’s 1994 release, “Fun,” which delivers 18 tracks in just 46 minutes. This album exemplifies Johnston’s unique approach to songwriting. Johnston’s songs are quick, typically running between 90 seconds and two minutes, and shift genres dramatically from track to track. The songs have simple arrangements and highlight Johnston’s emotional vocal delivery.
The album’s hit song, “Life in Vain,” features vibrant strings and showcases the power of Johnston’s voice, while “Crazy Love” contrasts as a slow, nearly a cappella ballad with only a few piano chords. Throughout the album, Johnston’s reflective lyrics explore his connection to others, the modern world and himself.
The trail: Black Hill in Morro Bay
On the recommendation of Rudie, owner of Rock Espresso in Morro Bay, I headed to Black Hill Trail. While fog often blankets the Morro hills, I was fortunate to have a cloudless day that made for some of the best views in the county, creating an almost ethereal experience.
The trail features a winding path with multiple switchbacks. The elevation gain pays off on this scenic trail, offering panoramic views of Morro Bay and the surrounding coastline. The terrain features lush, green coastal hills that become especially vibrant after rain, while cypress and eucalyptus trees provide welcome partial shade along the route. There is plenty of uncut poison oak alongside the trail so make sure to keep ankles and calves covered.
A bundled-up walk through foggy chaparral would make for a great morning activity on hazier days. Still, the clear visibility during my hike offered exceptional views that complemented Johnston’s music perfectly.
The perfect pairing
Black Hill Trail and “Fun” create a synchronous experience greater than the sum of its parts. The trail’s constantly changing direction mirrors Johnston’s rapid shifts between musical styles and emotional states. I noticed that switching directions on the trail seemingly always paired with a well-timed switch in the music.
As I climbed higher, Johnston’s vulnerable lyrics created a powerful contrast with the expanding views:
| I cried a million tears-filled an ocean with my sorrow and if I had my way, I’d be up to see ya tomorrow and I know if you saw me now, you would be much perplexed and I know if you saw me now, your mind would be contorted. But I love you. “Mind Contorted: Track 6” | Flip on your TV and try to make sense out of that if we were all in the movies maybe we wouldn’t be so bored we’re giving it up so plain we’re living our lives in vain and where are we going to? “Life in Vain: Track 2” |
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These moments of human vulnerability felt intensified and somehow soothed by the vast landscape spreading out below.
This framework of unfiltered emotional honesty has influenced countless musicians. Beatrice Laus (Beebadoobee) told NME in a 2019 interview just after Johnston’s death, “His lyrics are just so genuine and he’s so honest with what he says. Now, everything I write is inspired by what’s in my head.”
The summit experience
By the album’s conclusion, Johnston breaks into a full-scale teardown of whatever musical expectations he established at the start. Standing at Black Hill’s summit overlooking the great expanse of Morro Bay during the face-melting finale track, “Rock and Roll / EGA,” I felt ready to conquer the world.
Just as Black Hill winds through various environments and reveals its personality without reservation, Johnston does the same through his music. These two elements pair like fine wine and cheese, creating a complementary balance between natural grandeur and human vulnerability.
Recommendation
Receiving the privilege to feel simultaneously small before nature’s vastness while listening to music that grapples with the most complex human emotions creates a uniquely powerful experience. As this series continues, I hope to uncover more perfect pairings between San Luis Obispo County’s natural wonders and musical journeys that enhance them both.
Whether you’re a longtime Johnston fan or completely new to his work, this combination offers something special — a chance to see the world from Black Hill’s height while hearing it through Johnston’s distinct perspective.
